On Tuesday we woke up bright and early to pack up any last minute items and get to the bus on time. In the lobby Mikki and I met Kenny and Vicky from Canada. Reuben met us outside of our hotel and loaded all of our luggage underneath the coach. Turns out he didn't need to weigh the bags after all. He said he could tell if something was over the weight limit, and all of our bags were fine. Score! We left London around 7:30am and headed for the white cliffs of Dover (1).

During our ride through the English countryside, Hans introduced himself and gave a speech about what to expect on the tour. He warned us about the hotels: "European accommodations are not like those found in the US. There are two types of hotels we'll be staying in: good hotels and better hotels." He told us about the meals: "Breakfast is not what you're used to. Stay away from the chemical orange juice. Expect rolls, jam, and if you're lucky, meats and cheese." He told us to synchronize our watches with the bus's clock, and to please be on time. Hans said that if someone is late, it limits what the whole group can do, and to please not be late. He also reminded us that for the next twelve days we would all be family, and the coach would be our roving home, and to treat both with respect. Mikki and I met two of our fellow family members per Hans's directions: we introduced ourselves to Michael and Monica, from Australia.

Hans is from Holland, but currently lives in London. I had read about Hans on Zak Binder's travelogue. Zak was one of the very helpful past Contiki-ites that helped me prepare for my trip, and thanks to Zak's glowing review of Hans, I knew I was in good hands. Reuben also introduced himself briefly, and told us to not use the toilet on the bus. Reuben is from New Zealand, and moved to Hopfgarten, Austria a few years ago. He also told us that being a bus driver was just his cover for his real job: porn star.

We took a ferry across the English Channel to Calais, France, which took about an hour and a half. While on the ferry, several people exchanged their leftover British pounds into euros, and we got some brunch. The food wasn't great (what do you expect from a ferry?). We found out that when paying for food on the ferry, whether you paid in pounds or euros, the cashier gave change only in pounds. I thought that was a little counter productive for those of us LEAVING England.

I met several other people on our tour, including Crissy from NYC (whom I had also "met" via the Contiki message boards). I also remember meeting Cindy and Christine from Canada. While hanging out on the top deck, we met some students that were taking a guided tour of Europe with a different tour group. I kept thinking in my head that our trip was going to be way better!

We finished the ferry ride and arrived in Calais, ready to start our trek across Belgium for Holland. Hans gave us more information about all of the optional excursions, and especially the ones available in Amsterdam : a sunset canal cruise, and a non-Contiki-sponsored "culture" (i.e., sex) show. I definitely wanted to do the canal cruise, but wasn't too sure about the sex show. As far as I was concerned, I didn't need to go watch people have sex. Getting an eyeful in the Red Light District would be enough for me.

As we crossed over the Belgium/Holland border we pulled into a rest stop for a late lunch. It was our first encounter with bathroom attendants and paying to use the facilities. It seems like such a bizarre concept to me, but it is the norm in Europe. Even though there was a bistro-like area at the rest stop, most of us opted for McDonald's. A few people asked for ketchup for their fries, and were charged 30¢. Ketchup should automatically come with anything at McDonald's, if you ask me. But then again, we were in Holland, and they drown their fries in mayonnaise, not ketchup. I bet extra mayo is free there.

A bunch of us sat down together at a large table to get to know each other better. Zeeni said that she was going to view the bus as her ride, which bugged me. This tour was about spending time together, and experiencing things together—which the four original girls had not done since our second day in London. That day was strained anyway since Mikki and I wanted to go at a faster pace than Becca and Zeeni did.

We knew we were in Holland when we saw our first working windmill (3). As the saying goes, God created the Dutch, but the Dutch created Holland. They used windmills and irrigation to help take Holland back from the sea. Hans pointed out his hometown, and showed how he had to ride his bike to school which was very far away. That's one of the things that's unique about Holland: it is very flat and so everyone rides bicycles. I think the number of bicycles in Holland exceeds its total population.

When we got to Amsterdam, we went straight to our hotel. The hotel was fine, but the shower had no shower curtain. I wasn't sure how I was supposed to take a shower, but I'd worry about that later. I only had something like half an hour to get ready before I had to be at dinner (which I learned would be typical of the pace on the tour), and catch the bus into town. Becca and Zeeni weren't ready when Mikki and I were, so Mik and I went ahead to dinner. Dinner was at the hotel, and it was buffet style. Mikki and I ate with Lisa and Ali from Australia, and Boon Yee and Yuen Sum (AKA Cherry).

After dinner we all headed into town for our canal cruise. Hans warned us about the bike riders and to stay out of their lane. He wasn't kidding. As we left the bus, several of us almost got ran over by the cyclists. The bus dropped us off right in front of the dock where the boat was waiting for us. I was pretty sure everyone was coming on the cruise, so I was excited to finally meet everyone. Then I saw Becca and Zeeni head for the city. Apparently they were skipping the cruise to go see Amsterdam on their own terms. They're both adults and can make their own decisions, but I was kind of disappointed that we wouldn't be hanging out. The four of us had barely hung out together since our second day in London. And on top of that, they wouldn't get to meet everyone in the social setting the cruise would provide.

When we got on the cruise (4), we sat with Kreena and Roshni, who were college roommates and had just graduated, and Kenny and Vicky (5). There were plates full of gourmet cheese and crackers at each of the booths (6). They were so good, we ended up taking the cheese and cracker plate from one of the few unoccupied booths. Our host led us in a toast and we drank little shots of Toppertje, which I'm guessing is a Dutch drink (7). She told us about Amsterdam, and pointed out some of the more historic sites (8). Around this time I started going on and on about how awesome my camera was, thanks to its different idiot proof settings that allowed me to take great sunset pictures, etc. (9). Well, to be fair, I would go on and on about my camera's awesomeness every time I took a great picture. My apologies to anyone that got sick of my raving.

While on the cruise, I also met and chatted with Simon, Mark, Kristyn, Mike, Gary, Laurie, Jen (all Canucks), and Dane (Aussie). As we departed I managed to meet Brian and Narelle (more Aussies), and then Bryan and Alana, who were also from DC. I had heard there was a couple on the tour, so I thrilled to finally meet them.

After the canal cruise we headed into the Red Light District. Amsterdam is one of the few places where prostitution (10) and marijuana (11) (and euthanization) are legal. Holland recognizes there is a need for these things, and essentially take advantage of tourists. I'm sure Amsterdam wouldn't be nearly as popular as other European cities if not for these sanctioned activities, which generate a lot of revenue for the state.

I'd have a picture of one of the girls in her window, but Hans informed us that if we took any pictures of the girls, their pimps would hunt us down and throw our cameras in the canal. I didn't want that to happen. So I tried to be slick about it and take a picture without the flash. It didn't come out, but one of the girls saw my camera and banged on her window and flicked me off. Whew! That was close.

After drinking a LOT of wine on the canal cruise (hey, it was free), I had to go to the bathroom. Mikki, Kenny, Vicky and I went into a bar. I was shocked to see regular people sitting there, drinking Heinekens, and watching a soccer game (12). Then it dawned on me: the Dutch are regular people. They don't really partake in all of the activities they offer. I guess it makes sense. I've lived in the D.C. area my entire life, yet I've never been to the White House.

Amsterdam has more canals than Venice, and at night it is really pretty to see it all lit up (13). The four of us did what any tourists that weren't interested in smoking pot would do: we checked out the sex shops. Now, I'll admit to buying a souvenir, but I won't admit whether the others purchased anything or not. You'll have to ask them. At the second sex shop, the clerk was watching a porno, "One in the Pink, One in the Stink," so that he would know what it was about and could recommend it to customers. Don't you just love the names the marketing geniuses come up with for pornos?

We were getting hungry and decided to get some food at Febo, which Hans had recommended we experience (14). None of the food in the compartments appealed to me so I decided to order some ice cream. Although just about all Dutch people speak English (they watch English-speaking shows with Dutch subtitles), I decided to test my German when ordering (because we were going to Germany the next day). I asked if the cashier spoke German, he said that he did, and then I said that I would like some chocolate ice cream. It's fairly simple German so I didn't think I'd have any problems. Then he said something to me, and I honestly have no idea what it was. I just nodded and said yes. Then he hands me vanilla ice cream with strawberry syrup. Wow, was my German that horrible, or had he just explained to me that they were out of chocolate but would I like vanilla instead? I'll just have to hope it was the latter.

We walked around and took some more pictures (15) before heading back to meet the bus. On our way Mikki and I finally caved and bought a chocolate-covered Belgian waffle (16). Yummy.

With a happy buzz, we got on the bus around midnight and headed back to our hotel. It is crazy to think that I met Kenny and Vicky in London the same day that we all went shopping together in a sex shop. This truly was unlike any vacation I had ever been on before!

Day 6 • Wednesday, May 11, 2005 • Amsterdam, Holland

We woke up on Wednesday, packed quickly and were on the bus, ready to go at 7:30am. As was everyone else on our tour...except for two people. Hans counted and recounted, and started to call everyone's name to figure out who was missing. I knew immediately who was missing: Zeeni and Becca. Hans checked out their room, which he said looked as if a bomb had hit it. He left them a note for where to meet the bus, and we left for a cheese and clogs demonstration. We saw a guy explain how cheese was made, and then he carved some Dutch wooden shoes before our very eyes. It's cool to know that some Dutch traditions live on to this day.

After the demonstrations, we were shuffled into the cheese and clog shop, and encouraged to buy souvenirs. I would learn that encouraged souvenir shopping was a regular part of all Contiki demonstrations. And I'm pretty sure kickbacks for the tour manager and/or bus driver were involved. Anyway, outside the shop was a big clog for photo opportunities (17).

We were done with the demonstration by 9:00am and went into the city to explore before leaving at 12:30pm for our next stop. Hans was willing to take anyone to a diamond demonstration if interested, but he said that diamonds are diamonds and you could see them anywhere. He recommended seeing something unique to Amsterdam. Fortunately there were a few things to choose from: the Anne Frank House, the Heineken Brewery, and the Van Gogh Museum.

Most of the group chose to go to the Anne Frank House, which was really moving. It was really powerful to climb through that bookcase and see how Anne Frank, her family and another family lived for two years while hiding from the Nazis. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take pictures inside the house or museum, but I did get a picture of her statue nearby (18).

We had a few hours to explore Amsterdam before we had to meet the bus, and it was like we were in a completely different city in the daylight. Granted, we noticed a LOT of hash bars that we hadn't noticed the night before (19), and some of them sold a lot more than marijuana (20). We explored Amsterdam, and did a bit of shopping. Mikki bought a pink coat since it was still very cold for May.

We stopped at H&M and both bought some socks. Neither of us expected to be wearing our sneakers so much in May. We really thought we'd be wearing our flip flops the whole time. With the weather being as cold as it had been so far, our sock supplies were running low.

We stopped and had lunch in a little bakery. We both got these pizza-like things. Imagine a pizza with crust that is at least an inch and a half deep all the way across with some cheese (not enough for a real pizza) and ham and a tomato slice, and no marinara sauce. It was pretty good. Also when we ordered our food for there, I saw the bottles of Coke and wanted one of those with my meal. I found out that if I was going to eat there at the bakery, I was going to get a glass with Coke in it (and no ice).

We wandered around, and even went to the Grasshopper (most well-known marijuana bar) to use the restroom (21). It was really weird to be in there during the day when it was pretty much deserted. The bathroom was on the second floor and so when we went up there to use it, the bartender said that the upstairs was closed but that we could get whatever we needed downstairs. Uh, do people really wake up on a Wednesday and head straight for the Grasshopper to get their day started...like Starbucks?

We went to a few more souvenir shops so that I could get a Heineken glass for my friend Larkin, whose AOL screen name even says how much he loves Heineken. I also picked up some flag patches, with the intention of buying one in each country that we visit. Mikki had run out of Dramamine, so she went to a Dutch pharmacy and did her best to describe that she needed some motion sickness medicine. Before taking it, she checked with Hans to see if the medicine she had bought was actually for motion sickness. He said that the medicine was for anxiety and depression (22).

At 12;25 Zeeni and Becca showed up at the bus with their luggage, and boarded the bus. I started to get the feeling that they didn't want to have anything to do with this tour, and weren't going to last very long on this trip.

At 12:30 on the dot we left Amsterdam, and not a moment too soon. As cool as it was to visit Amsterdam, there isn't too much for us straight and narrow folks to do (who don't want to smoke up or get to know the call girls better). Germany, here we come!

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